Australia Day spent relaxing in Kannur, Kerala
Last night I went to see a film at this old theatre in Thrissur. It is one of the few old style cinemas left, most of the other have been pulled down and replaced with huge air conditioned multiplexes.
I was warned repeatedly before we went that it was not a very good cinema, and that it was quite old. But as soon as we pulled up in front of it in the rickshaw I fell in love a little bit. These places don’t really exist anymore at home either, and there is something magical about going to see a film in such an old theatre.
We walked in and there was a foyer with a ticket office. We bought a ticket for upstairs, and walked up the stairs and into the hall. It was a huge hall, with two levels. No air conditioning meant that it was a little warm, but because it was so big there was enough air flow for it not to be uncomfortable. The seats were the old style bench seats that swing up when you stand up, and they were organised into narrow rows.
There is something really nostalgic about sitting in such an old theatre and waiting to watch a film. I feel as though I appreciate the whole experience a great deal more, becauseI’m filled with that amazement about the magic of the movies, which doesn’t happen when you are seated in a huge technologically advanced multiplex. Its that magic and amazement that the audience was reminded of in Hugo, and which has been lost with the advent of animation and box office hits.
Unfortunately, the movie we watched in such a magical setting was GI Joe. What a waste.
The Indian railways is a complex system of ticketing, trains and stations. It is the most popular way to travel, and in a country of 1.4 billion people it requires a fair bit of advance planning to secure a ticket. However it is possible to travel without much warning, and this is especially possible when travelling short distances of a few hours.
So here’s a few handy hints for travelling shot distances with Indian rail, that I’ve learnt during my adventures.
- Buy an unreserved ticket. See my other entry on train ticketing here for details of this. Short journeys are easier to find empty seats for the duration of them, and the difference between fares will not be great. Also theres a chance the inspector won’t come past, and you get away with a 60rs journey.
- Carry as little luggage as possible, in order to move easily on the train. This makes it easier to find a seat if you have an unreserved ticket, and also means you do not have to worry too much when you need to go to the bathroom.
- Find a seat on an air conditioned coach, or a window seat if possible, it will make the journey more comfortable to have some air flow in often crowded train carriages.
- Carry a magazine or newspaper with you. Even if you don’t particularly feel like reading this, it serves as a useful distraction when the inevitable questions start coming from the weird Indian man next to you. Innocent but persistent questions such as “Where are you going? What is your country? Where are you staying? Why are you in India? Can I have your mobile number?”, can be stopped by feigning interest in a magazine article or newspaper. The saving grace of uncomfortably friendly people is that they are too polite to interrupt you.
- Don’t fall asleep. Because it is a short journey you will probably miss your stop if you fall asleep. Don’t try to justify a short nap, no matter how hot it is, or how sleepy you are after your train biryani: if you miss your stop, then it will be a nightmare trying to get back, the distances are too great.
- Always, always carry water with you. While there are countless chai-wallahs and vada-wallahs and yes, occasionally a man selling water by the bottle, you don’t want to be caught out going between two stations without anyone plying their food or drink items. Especially when it is hot and dusty.
Today I decided to travel from Coimbatore, Tamil Nadu, to Thrissur (Trichy), Kerala, by train to stay with a good friend of mine and his wife. This friend also happens to be my former boss and the reason why I was able to come to this country to work in Coimbatore. I travelled very comfortably by train despite only deciding on the journey two hours in advance. I bought an unreserved ticket for 60rs, found an empty seat and didn’t see a ticket inspector – which means I didn’t have to upgrade my ticket. Successful day.
Despite the size , with more than 10,000 trains running everyday, in a country of 1.4 billion people, it is still quite difficult to get a train ticket. Allocated tickets usually sell out days or even weeks before the date of the journey. Luckily, in order to make it a bit more possible to get a ticket, there are several ways of ensuring your place on a train.
Three ways to buy a ticket
In person – it is possible to go to any railway station and purchase a ticket over the counter from the advance reservation desk. You must fill out a paper form with your personal details (name, age, phone number), as well as the train number and ticket type. This is good because you can pay in cash, however expect to spend a whole afternoon lining up to obtain a ticket: these offices are very crowded, and queues are not strictly followed.
Through an agent – there are hundreds of travel agencies in India who will help you to book train (and bus) tickets, for a commission. Travel agents can get special access to the railways booking facility, and there is a special allocation of tickets provided for them to access.
Online – train tickets can be booked through the IRCTC website, you just need to register your details and obtain a username/password. However you need a functioning Indian mobile number in order to do this, and you can only pay using Indian debit/credit cards.
Three types of tickets
Reserved – reserved tickets give you an allocated seat/berth, and are available (theoretically) up until a few hours before the train departs. However, there is a limited number of these available, because no train can be infinitely long. So often these sell out days or weeks in advance of the travel time.
Mostly when I have tried to book a ticket, I have booked an unconfirmed ticket, which means you are put on a waiting list. When you try to book the ticket it will have something like “CKWL6/WK5”, which means there is a wait list of 5 people before you. This means that when people with allocated seats cancel or change theirs leading up to the journey, your place in the wait list should decrease until eventually (hopefully) your ticket is confirmed and you are allocated a seat. If your ticket isn’t confirmed by the time the train departs, it is possible to get a refund on your ticket up until 24 hours after the train departure time. So it is a bit of a gamble booking a wait listed ticket – although if the gamble doesn’t pay off you won’t lose your money, and you have other options.
Tatkaal – the Tatkaal scheme is a last minute release of tickets at 10am the day before a particular journey. These are released online and can be purchased by yourself or through an agent. These tickets are more expensive than a general release ticket, and there are generally not very many of them released.
Be warned: trying to buy these tickets online is worse than trying to buy festival tickets (think Splendour in the Grass on Moshtix), as there are a easily a few million people trying to access tickets for hundreds of different trains on the same server. So the connection drops out and the process needs to be repeated several times in the hope of buying a ticket.
I spent one hour trying to book a ticket to Bangalore once – I had to repeat the process several times before I managed to pay successfully and obtain a ticket. The only reassuring factor was that if I was feeling this frustrated, then so were a million other people.
However this is your best bet at getting an allocated ticket at short notice for a long journey, so if you’re desperate to buy a train ticket, settle in for a wait online!
Unreserved – these tickets can be purchased on the day of travel, and cost less than 100rs. An unreserved ticket allows you onto the train, and once on the train you wander through the carriages looking for an unoccupied seat. Once you find one, sit down and look like you own that space so that no-one else tries to take it. When the ticket inspector comes by, you can buy a ticket for that particular seat if it is free, and simply pay the difference in fare to the inspector. If that particular seat is not unoccupied for your journey, then the inspector carries a print out of the passenger manifest, and they can look to see if there is another available seat on the train.
If there are no seats available to purchase, there is always an unreserved carriage on every train. Although I’m not game enough to go in there: its usually packed full of (mostly) men, and I think that I would be too much of a novelty to handle. There is also a women’s unserved carriage, but it also usually incredibly crowded. So, depending on how adventurous you are, and how much luggage you have, you can keep wandering the train trying to avoid inspectors, or sit in the unreserved carriages.
These tickets are best for short journeys, as it is less likely that you will find an available seat the longer your journey. Especially not advised if you are hoping to sleep during the journey.